The Ellensburg Formation: A Distant Cousin to Kitsap's Blakely Formation.

It's been almost a year to the day since I've last posted. I hope to get a flow going again, especially since I'm graduating this March. So here we go.

The Cascade volcanoes have been erupting for 40 million years, constructing massive volcanic edifices, ejecting clouds of debris and ash to rain down on eastern Washington, and sending mudflows and floods careening down river valleys into the Pacific Ocean, Puget Sound, and eastern lowlands. Today with the current position of our five active fire mountains, most, if not all, lahars are directed to the west towards Puget Sound with its densely populated metropolitan centers or south towards the Columbia River. Millions of years ago, the setting was slightly different. A volcano or a group of volcanoes near the present-day location of White Pass were active, violently active. Explosive eruptions blasted frothy gas-rich magma out of their throats and sent moving masses of water, ash, and clay barrelling down ancient river valleys. One of these valleys was aimed at the present-day location of Thorp, Washington.

The Kittitas Valley with its modern-day volcanic sentinels Mount Adams (Left) and Mount Rainier (right). 

Driving east along Interstate 90 past Thorp, one can look across the valley to the north and spot a group of imposing white cliffs towering over the adjacent fields. For a closer look, Highway 10 between Ellensburg and Thorp passes immediately below these cliffs. These are the "White Bluffs," and they are a geologic staple of the Kittitas Valley. These cliffs reveal a stack of 4-5 volcanic lahars produced by the volcanoes near White Pass so many millennia ago. The lahars appear as a solid white mass of ash-rich cement, suspending huge boulders of volcanic rock and peppered with sponge-like pumice, which is typically produced in significantly explosive eruptions. Each lahar is separated by beautifully layered river deposits, organized and sorted beds with crossbeds and other patterns, marking periods of slower processes compared to the catastrophic volcanic apocalypses which ravaged the river valley half a dozen times. 

Outcrop of the "White Bluffs" showing a lahar (Thick layer at the base) and river deposits over the top. 

This outcrop is just a small section of the Ellensburg Formation. This geologic formation can be found throughout the Kittitas and Yakima Valleys and varies significantly throughout its extent. Just southwest of Central Washington University's campus is "Craig's Hill," an elongated knoll in the middle of the city. This hill is almost wholly composed of the Ellensburg Formation. However, it differs in composition from the "White Bluffs" in that there is only one volcanic lahar exposed; the majority of the hill is mostly a series of thick river rock deposits known as conglomerates. 

An exposed cliff face on Craig's Hill in Ellensburg showing it's large gravel deposits. 

The Ellensburg Formation's make up should sound familiar to readers, with its interwoven gravels, sandstones, and mudflows. It is, in fact, similar to the Blakeley Formation, which lies around the shorelines of Puget Sound and similarly records early volcanic activity in the Cascades. These two geologic cousins demonstrate how volcanism has been significantly affecting the state on both sides of the cascades for millions of years, and they will continue to do so for quite some time.

Kitsap Waterfall Survey: The Hidden Splendor of Lost Creek Falls

When I first began searching for waterfalls on the Kitsap Peninsula, one of the first things to catch my attention was the large canyon of Lost Creek. The creek digs a deep gouge over two miles in length west to east through thick glacial deposits, hugging the northern reaches of the Blue Hills. Upon further investigation and observation of the topographic maps, I began to realize that the head of the canyon likely housed one of Kitsap’s largest waterfalls, a hidden giant (in Kitsap terms) 50 feet high or greater. Reading the county parcel map, I also quickly realized that the location was inaccessible as the entirety of the hypothesized falls lied within private property - foiled again!

As my waterfall survey continued, and I checked more and more streams off the list, Lost Creek remained at the back of my mind. Finally, I caved. I sat down and wrote a detailed letter to the property owners along Lost Creek explaining my intentions and asking permission to access the creek. Rather rapidly I received confirmation from all of them; unfortunately, I moved to Central Washington University around the same time, and everything was put on hold. 

Fast forward to this Friday. I sent out an email to one of the property owners asking if it was still ok if I could investigate the falls on their property. I was surprised when I got a very kind reply back that I was more than welcome, in fact, I could come that same day. Throwing my waterfalling gear on and hurling myself into my truck, I made my way over to the Stephen family's property, perched on the precipitous canyon hiding Lost Creek. 

I was very fortunate and lucky that the Stephens family opened up their home and property for me to explore and run around on. That being said, the photos and report of these falls described here are for your reading only. The Stephens have asked that they would like these falls to remain off-limits to the general public, so please respect their wishes and enjoy the photos and detailed description I give here. Do not attempt to reach these falls.

I arrived at the Stephens' property not sure what to expect. I was greeted by Katie and Joe, who grew up on the property, and they happily led me down several trails to the bottom of the canyon, showing the best access points. They returned to the house to let me scamper along the creek. Here's what I observed.

The first 10 foot drop of the upper cascades. Photo By Micah K. 

Lost Creek babbles onto the Stephens'  property in a quiet, unassuming fashion with musical chattering echoing through the leaves. Shortly after passing the property line, its character rapidly changes. The creek skitters over a tiny shelf of brown bedrock and picks up speed, flowing past a gravel bar and then crashing 10 feet over a brown mass of bedrock into a small plunge pool. Across this plunge pool from the face of the falls is a large outcrop of grey blocky bedrock. The creek skips around this and begins a series of small drops into a deep gorge. I didn’t have the time to explore this gorge in detail, but there is at least one 10 foot drop at its head and a 5 foot drop at the bottom, making this initial cascade at least 25 feet high.

The final drop on the upper cascades. Photo by Micah K.

After this gorge, the creek takes a brief rest, flowing alongside a massive gravel bar of shattered bedrock and occasional glacial erratics transported from the north tens of thousands of years ago. After squeezing through a logjam, the creek begins its chaotic downward tumble again. As soon as the creek escapes the tangled mass of logs, it spreads out across a broad, grooved shelf of grey-blue bedrock that spans the entire floor of the canyon. The creek hisses across this shelf and loses 10 feet of elevation in around 60 feet of run. This shelf ends abruptly in a small 4-5 foot plunge into a beautiful and hauntingly deep pool. Upon exiting this pool, the creek works its way through another loose logjam and immediately hurtles 15 feet over a spectacularly photogenic block into a gorgeous blue-green pool. Without pause, the creek crashes over another  15 foot cascading slide, pooling at the base of a cliff of grey rock. After a short turn around the cliff, the creek trips over a 4 foot rib of rock and flows quietly for 30-40 feet.  

the most significant tier of "Lost Creek Falls" 

After navigating past another small logjam, the creek hurtles 10 feet over a rugged ledge, turns, and dives over what appears to be another 10 to 15 foot drop jammed between two ribs of rock. I was only able to view this final drop from the top, and from my vantage point perched on the precipitous walls of the canyon, the creek calmed down following this and flowed around the corner out of sight. However, I know that the whitewater doesn't stop there, as neighbors downstream have reported several waterfalls on their property. It is inevitable that I will have to strap on my waders once more and return to Lost Creek to finish the survey I started, and I hope that day comes soon. Until then, I am currently analyzing and identifying the rock types that make up the bedrock at these falls and hope to do the same at other falls around Kitsap. 

The second main tier of "Lost Creek Falls." Note the first main tier peeking out in the background. Photo by Micah K. 

Thank you to the Stephens family for opening up their home and canyon to me for exploring! This blog post wouldn't have been possible without their hospitality. 

Kitsap Waterfall Survey: Changing scenery at "Heins Creek Falls"

The upper tier of "Heins Creek Falls" with scale.
Photo by Micah K. 

On Sunday 10/30/2016 I visited one of my favorite falls in the area, "Heins Creek Falls" and was delighted to find that the recent rains have reinvigorated the creek and the falls were roaring with jubilee.

Everything about the first tier appeared to be in order, so I moved down to the second tier, which I haven't seen up close since the last time I first discovered the falls over a year and a half ago. What I found surprised me greatly.

If you read my original write up about this falls, you will find that I describe the second drop of this falls as slipping through a large logjam which is damming up the creek before it plunges 20 feet into a crevice. Well....things have changed a little bit.

When I arrived at the second tier, it had changed it's appearance drastically. The logjam has apparently settled even more since my last visit, and is beginning to block water flow from above. As a result, nearly half the volume of the creek is now plunging over the cliff over 30 feet from where it originally was. A swath of hillside that used to be covered in ferns, leaves, and soil is now bare basalt with roaring whitewater tumbling over it. The resulting display is absolutely spectacular.

The second tier of "Heins Creek Falls." Photo by Micah K. 

Kitsap Waterfall Survey: "Wright Creek Cascades"

When I first investigated Wright Creek on the western outskirts of Bremerton and surveyed "Wright Creek Falls," I immediately realized that the creek probably had more to offer as it bounced its way down to Sinclair Inlet. I have since visited "Wright Creek Falls" multiple times, and each time got me more and more frustrated at the difficult access downstream of the falls, which appeared to have steep slopes and thick brush. I finally decided that the best way to survey downstream was going to be walking down the stream itself.

I was really hoping that the search would be relatively straight forward, just walk down the creek until I hit a cascade or waterfall. I should have known better. For the next three hours I was in the creek as often as I was out of it. Being out of the creek involved fighting foot-for-foot through Devil's Club, Salmonberry, Swordfern, Salal, and Evergreen Huckleberry. Being in the creek resulted in teeth chattering temperatures, slippery rocks, and hidden pools in the creek which at some points almost sent me up to my waist.

A small unnamed cascade on Wright Creek. Photo by Micah K. 

After passing a few small rapids and interesting little cascades, shin deep in the chilly water, my frustration was mounting. I finally came to a sharp bend in the creek, and as I stepped around it I was immediately met with the thundering roar of crashing water.

"Wright Creek Cascades," Photo by Micah Kipple.
Unfortunately there is a serious foreshortening of the cascades in this photo so they appear smaller than they are in actuality. 

1,100 feet downstream of "Wright Creek Falls," Wright Creek narrows and rockets through a small basalt gorge, this gorge is occupied by "Wright Creek Cascades." The cascades begin immediately after the creek is dammed up behind a small logjam. Composed of three main drops, the cascades total about ten feet in height. Below the cascade the creek appears to calm down, with only one more section of rapids before continuing down towards the Inlet.

Kitsap Waterfall Survey: "Kitsap Lake Cascades,"

The other day while looking through fish habitat reports for Kitsap County, I stumbled across a reference for a "cascade" occurring just after the outflow from Kitsap Lake. This surprised me, as I thought the terrain immediately surrounding the lake was too flat to produce any sizeable water features, turns out anything can happen in the Puget Lowlands. Since Kitsap Lake was on the way to somewhere I had to go after classes, I decided to drive by and take a look. I parked the car at the spot and walked to the edge of the creek, almost immediately I was met with the roar of crashing water reaching out of the small gorge towards me. I began down a small social trail, and this is what I found:

Upper Tier of "Kitsap Cascades," Photo by Micah K. 

Almost immediately after exiting Kitsap Lake, Kitsap Creek has incised a small gorge in the glacial deposits all the way down to the bedrock . After flowing under the road, the creek begins a series of sliding tumbles over several basalt shelves totaling approximately ten feet high, barely making the survey's height requirement. This cascade takes the appearance of a smaller more stretched out version of "Gold Creek Falls". The most striking portion of the falls are the two main drops. The upper drop, which is also the most visible, slides about three to four feet just before a sharp turn in the creek, then about 40 feet further downstream, the creek crashes over another drop five to six feet high. This is where the most significant portion of the cascade ends, although tiny one to two foot drops occur for the next 50 feet or so until the creek finally calms down and continues its journey to link up with Chico Creek.