Every hobby has a beginning, and my joy of waterfalling is no exception. I have been chasing after falls across western washington for about a year and a quarter now, and it's fun to look back on where it all began.
In June of 2014 as I was beginning my second season working in Yellowstone National Park, a good friend of mine who was also working in the park came up with an idea. An avid waterfall hunter, he begged me and two other friends to accompany him to a remote section of the park called the Bechler region. He wanted to go see and photograph three massive world class waterfalls there. After looking at work schedules and long term weather forecasts, we decided that we would go on August 5.
The day of departure dawned with the sound of pouring rain, our group realized it was probably a foreboding sign of what was to come. We hopped in the car anyway and drove three hours to the trailhead, with one or two "minor" delays. The trailhead itself is located deep in the countryside, Twelve miles down a winding worn out dirt road that squeezes between the boundaries of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, and nearly hidden at the bottom of a old dam.
First starting down the trail it was dry, and actually seemed somewhat pleasant, we eagerly moved forward, hoping to make it to our first waterfall goal of the trip with little hassle. Two miles later, just as we were taking our boots off for the river ford the trail crosses, the sky opened. A deluge of rain drenched us within minutes, and continued for the next hour or so as we began the climb up to a plateau. Finally, just as we were at the point to step off the trail, it let up. Wading through knee high brush in a gorgeous open forest of lodgepole pine, we made our way down towards the canyon which housed our prize. Eventually, a dull rumbling thunder reached our ears, and shortly after, we burst out of the trees onto the rim of a spectacular rhyolite canyon. At our feet, Slamming downward in six consecutive steps totalling 140 feet, was one of the largest, most powerful waterfalls in the Western United States. Terraced Falls.
140 ft Terraced Falls. Note the author and companion on the canyon rim to the left.
Photo by Ryan Maurer, Under A Rock Photography.
If there is one (predictable) geyser other than Old Faithful that is worth is seeing in Yellowstone National Park, it would be Grand Geyser. Located about a quarter mile from Old Faithful via several routes, Grand is located in a alcove against a large rocky hillside. It is surrounded by a massive viewing area, where there are almost two dozen benches placed so you can wait for the geyser. This set up is for good reason, as Grand is the largest predictable geyser in the world, and every eruption is a sight to behold.
Grand Geyser's pool on an early morning. Photo by Micah K.
The reason that Grand Geyser is so special is because Grand is the largest predictable geyser in the world, there are several geysers that are larger and last longer, but are not predictable, Grand is predicted by the National Park Service, and visitors can find prediction times in the visitor center by Old Faithful or by calling in the prediction hotline when it is available during the summer season. (I will post it when it becomes available)
The geyser prediction board at the Old Faithful Visitor Center front desk. Photo by Janet W.
Grand Geyser erupts about every 6-9 hours (the prediction for the summer was 7.5 +/-2 hours), and the eruption lasts 10-15 minutes. Being the largest predictable geyser in the world, Grand reaches heights of up to 180 (rarely 190) feet, being 30-50 feet taller than the average Old Faithful eruption which is 135-150 feet.
Grand Geyser at it's zenith from near Castle Geyser. Photo by Micah K.
Despite it's relative regularity, Grand is not a solo player. It is closely related to several other Geysers surrounding it which have been grouped together in the "Grand Group". Two of these geysers are especially closely tied to Grand; Turban and Vent. Turban Geyser is located just North (left from the benches) of Grand, and is a fountain geyser that erupts from a large sinter bowl . Many visitors mistake this bowl for Grand, when in fact Grand is the shallow inconspicuous pool right next to Turban.Vent is a small, well, vent, nearly hidden in a small alcove against Turban Geyser's shoulders.Turban's frequent bursting eruptions usually reach heights of only 5-10 feet, but when accompanying Grand (see below) it's water droplets can climb to 20 feet.
Turban Geyser in eruption (the large sinter rim) with Grand's pool in the foreground. Photo by Micah K.
Vent Geyser at full height. Photo by Micah K.
Turban and Grand are intimately linked. Turban erupts about every 15-20 minutes. Simultaneously, Grand's pool cycles up and down. Geyser Gazers watch these cycles closely, and with experience it is possible to judge if Grand has potential to erupt on each cycle. When Grand is ready to erupt, it's pool rises to overflow and the level plateaus. Then, palpitations in the pool will cause a chain of waves to ripple across the pool. Eventually these waves becomes almost impossible to miss. At this point the Geyser Gazer who's calling Grand makes a "Wave's on Grand, Waves on Grand" call to let anyone nearby to hustle up.
Waves on Grand, early morning. Photo by Micah K.
When waves become visible Grand can do one of two things, it can drop and the cycle can start over again, in which sometimes it takes another hours and a half to get another good try. Or Grand will erupt. There are two ways that Grand starts an eruption. There is the "Grand Start" and the "Turban Start". With the Grand Start, Grand beats Turban to the punch. The waves on the pool will build, and the palpitations will become a vigorous boil, suddenly a column of superheated water will explode from the pool, climbing into the sky and sending a 3 inch high wave of superheated water cascading down Grand's beautiful geyserite terraces. Turban Geyser erupts within 30 seconds, much larger than it's solo eruptions.
With a Turban start, Turban Geyser beats Grand to eruption first. Usually Turban will be noticeably bigger and more vigorous if Grand is going to erupt on that cycle. Once Turban starts, If Grand is going to erupt, it does so within 90 seconds of Turban.
A "Turban Start" of Grand Geyser on a gorgeous summer day with excited Geyser Gazers. Video by Micah K.
Vent Geyser does not participate in the energy battle that takes place between Grand and Turban, rather, it waits until about 2-3 minutes after Grand erupts, and then suddenly bursts out of hiding with a feather-like 75 foot jet of water. All 3 geysers continue to play for several minutes, then you get to the time where you can get a second "burst" out of Grand.
2nd Burst of Grand Geyser
Most Grand eruptions only have one burst, which begin with the initial massive water column climbing to 150-180 feet. Then about a minute or so into the eruption, the style switches and the eruption is characterized by a series of individual jets of water and steam that can reach 90-120 feet, accompanied by Vent's angled column and Turban's massive bursting.6 minutes into Grand's first burst, you enter into a window of opportunity. If a second burst is to happen, Grand will suddenly cease 6-9 minutes after starting and the water will drain out of sight. To unexperienced observers, it appears that the show is over, it becomes eerily quiet without the massive WHUMPH of Grand's jets, although Turban and Vent will continue to play. But suddenly blue boiling water will reappear in the shallow crater, boiling violently, the entire pool undulating. At this point Gazers are usually up on their feet, urging Grand on, but it can still drop and end the eruption, which happens frustratingly often. But there is the occasional time when that isn't the case, and instead, after surging an agonizing few seconds. Another massive column of water explodes from Grand's Pool, reaching 170-180 feet in seconds. The 2nd burst usually lasts only about 30 seconds, but it is still all the more spectacular, and it's a treat that all Geyser Gazers enjoy. Two burst eruptions are rare nowadays in themselves, but Grand has been known to have up to 11 bursts.
A video of an extremely rare 10 burst Grand with ecstatic Geyser Gazers. Video by. David Schwarz.
Vent, Turban and Grand erupt together joined by a rainbow. Photo by Micah K.
Wildcat Creek is one of Kitsap County's largest salmon streams, producing healthy runs of Chum and Coho salmon each year. Being one of Chico creek's largest tributaries, it has naturally been on my radar for some time.
Upper 5' section of "Bobcat Cascade"
Wildcat Creek is born in the same natural saddle that houses Tin Mine Lake; drained to the west by Tin Mine Creek. After flowing out of the saddle, even after heavy rains, Wildcat Creek is small, being only 3-5 feet wide at most and less than a foot deep. It meanders through the forested valley for less than a mile before it is crossed by Rock Quarry Road, and several hundred feet later, Wildcat Trail.
100-200 feet after the trail bridge, Wildcat creek encounters the basalt formations that make up the core of the Blue Hills. The creek drops over the first layer in a rather unimpressive two tiered cascade with respective drops of 5 and 10 feet. For the small size of this cascade, and for it's location on Wildcat Creek, I named it "Bobcat Cascade."
Somewhat disappointed at the size of the cascade, I forced myself to continue following the small creek, passing several more cascades to small to be included in the survey. Convinced that the creek had more to offer, I pushed downstream, crawling over logs, traversing steep slopes, and hoping there was another cascade or fall further down. Sure enough, I rounded a corner and the sound of hissing water echoed throughout the canyon.
After another several dozen feet, I found myself standing on the brink of a very steep, multi-tiered cascade, crashing down a rugged face of black basalt. Scrambling down alongside the fall, I carefully took notes of the different drops and their heights, here's what the results were:
Looking up the largest cascading drop of "Cougar Falls"
The falls consists of 3 main sections, all within about 150 feet of stream length.
The first section consists of a one foot, two foot, and four foot drop.
The second section is that largest, with a fifteen foot steep cascading drop.
The third section is a seven foot shallow cascade over basaltic rock with a striking orange-red color, bringing the total height of this fall to thirty-five feet.
Third bottom section of "Cougar Falls" note the tawny color of the rocks.
This orange color, which shows up in other parts of the basalt gorge the creek runs through; reminded me of the color of a Cougar, and thus, keeping in the theme of Wildcats, I named this fall, "Cougar Falls"
