What is Geyser Gazing?

Almost every facet of nature has a "fan club" or community of hobbyists associated with it: bird watchers, mycophagists, rockhounds, storm chasers, etc. In Yellowstone National Park (and occasionally other places with hydrothermal activity), you can find the geyser gazers. 

The author and another gazer enjoying an eruption of Fan and Mortar Geysers in 2014. Photo by Mara Reed.

People who identify themselves as geyser gazers have a variety of reasons that they enjoy spending long periods watching and studying geysers. Some do it for research purposes, collecting and analyzing data on behavior, patterns, and connections with other features unofficially or officially. Others do it with a camera in hand, always striving to get a great shot of these geologic fireworks. Some are in it mostly for the social aspect, hanging out with good friends and enjoying camaraderie while waiting for nature's show. Adrenaline junkies are present, chasing the adrenaline-fueled pandemonium during eruptions of massive and rare geysers. And some people practice the hobby as a way to enjoy a unique aspect of nature. But, to put this all together in a simple sentence, being a geyser gazer boils down (pun intended) to being someone that has a specific passion for geysers. This manifests itself in the many ways listed above, and others.

One of the now-extinct geysers at Steamboat Springs, Nevada. Photo by Rocco Paperiello.

There are many reasons why geysers are probably one of the unique geologic features on the planet and deserve attention. There are fewer than 3,000 of these erupting springs on the globe. Naturally, their numbers wax and wane almost weekly, with new geysers forming and erupting and others ceasing activity and going dormant or extinct. But, in addition to their natural fluctuations, recent human developments also severely threaten geysers. Drilling for geothermal power and oil, the construction of hydroelectric dams, as well as other projects, have destroyed or severely impacted several hydrothermal fields around the world in the past several decades. Geysers over 30 feet high were present above highway 395 in Nevada, just outside of Reno, before the Steamboat Springs geothermal powerplant went online in 1986 and snuffed them out forever. Their rarity, combined with the current anthropogenic threat, is what makes geysers the endangered species of geology.

Castle Geyser erupts at Sunrise. 

It's impressive enough that, in specific instances, the laws of physics and geology operate in such a way to propel boiling water into the air, it's even more fascinating when you realize that many of these features have discernable patterns to them. Some geysers erupt so regularly that you can nearly set your watch by them. On the opposite end of the spectrum, some geysers seemingly operate on a geologic coin flip, erupting erratically and seemingly randomly. But the latter chaotic side also gives them an allure. Most geysers do not play on a predictable schedule; some erupt days, weeks, months, or even years apart. The high regularity of Old Faithful is the exception rather than the norm. Another level to this is that this irregularity my be in part because many geysers are connected with other hydrothermal features, creating fascinating interplay, like a pool draining during an eruption, or activity in one geyser heralding, or even triggering, the eruptions or activity of another.

Every 200-foot major eruption of Giant Geyser (The huge cone) is preceded by a Giant Hot Period (surrounding activity), but not every hot period ends in a Giant Eruption. Talk about suspense!

There are persons from many walks of life in the geyser gazing community; teens, college students, moms and dads, retirees, etc. Gazers often congregate while waiting for the next geyser eruption, whether it be large or small, common or rare. Those times are frequently filled with laughter and happiness, stories and data are exchanged, jokes are quipped, and theories debated while waiting for the eruption. But gazers will have their specific individual interests as well. Some go towards Geyser Hill near Old Faithful or watch a particular geyser or several related ones. Others are content to go off into the far corners of the basin to wait on more erratic and unpredictable, but relatively quiet, geysers. Still, others prefer specific geyser basins around the park.

Gazers wait for an eruption of Steamboat Geyser.

Standing or sitting for long periods watching a geyser or other hydrothermal feature tends to attract attention, especially when you have a radio and notebook in your hands. Of the plethora of questions you receive, many commonly revolve around the theme of: "Why are you doing this?" Which is essentially asking, "What is geyser gazing?"

Geyser gazing is the person screaming for the big geyser, the person in the hat and sunglasses quietly sitting with a notebook by a spring, It's the person pulled over off the side of the road staring at some steam in the distance. Or it's the person leading an energetic explanation to a group of visitors about why they need to wait five more minutes and get the show of their lives. Geyser gazing is a passion for geysers and any form that takes. If you look for it, you'll see it, and maybe you'll become a part of it. 

Micah's Big Three

Once I take a liking to something, I tend to hyperfocus on it, sometimes to the point of obsession. This applies to hobbies, movies, food, books, and especially geologic features.

Over the past seven years, I have found three geographic features that have consistently captured my interest, bring me excitement, and that I love to talk about. Those three are geysers, waterfalls, and natural arches.

Geysers are the first feature that drew my attention. Back in 2012, I visited Yellowstone for a week and fell into the midst of the Geyser Gazers. Geysers instantly entranced me for their variation, patterns, activity, and uniqueness. I have now studied geysers and their associated hydrothermal features since, and it's something I plan to do for a long time.

The author observing an eruption of Beehive Geyser, photo by Cris Gower. 

The second geologic feature that ensnared me was an indirect result of geysers. In 2014, a good friend of mine talked two other friends and me into a three-day backpacking trip into a remote section of Yellowstone National Park known as the Bechler Region to view and photograph three world-class waterfalls. The trip was a chaotic blend of awesome and misery, but I came out of it with a new fondness of water going up as well as water going down. I kicked off the Kitsap Waterfall Survey just four months later.

The author at "Tin Mine Falls", Kitsap County. Photo by Rocco Paperiello.

The third geologic feature is the most recent, and one that took me somewhat by surprise. This last Fall (2019) after the end of my Yellowstone summer employment, I took a road trip through central Utah. I always wanted to go to Utah to view its amazing geologic landscapes and formations. Several people told me before the trip that it would become my favorite state, and that I might gain another feature that I was obsessed with, arches. I laughed them off at the time, but that all changed when I actually got there. Natural arches joined the list, and now I take great joy in hiking to and photographing arches whenever the opportunity presents itself.

Author at Sand Dune Arch in Arches National Park. Photo by Rocco Paperiello. 

There is an interesting consistency when it comes to my enjoyment of these features. In all three cases, whether it be a geyser, a waterfall, or an arch, I always enjoy smaller features rather than big ones. I'm not sure why this is, perhaps I feel I can take in more details of these features. Take geysers as an example. I enjoy a massive 200-foot eruption as much as the next person, but you're almost detached, staring in awe at this gargantuan thing, trying to wrap your head around it. With smaller geysers (sub 20 feet), you are often closer, and they erupt more often, which allows you to get more in-depth with their formation and behavior. This same general concept applies to waterfalls and arches as well. I always gravitate towards the smaller features because I can get right up and close to them. "Wright Creek Falls" is one of my favorite waterfalls on the Kitsap Peninsula for this reason, as is Metate and Mano Arches in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in Utah.

During this time that we're all jonesing for some good ol' outdoor exploration once it becomes sensible, think about some of your favorite geologic or geographic features and why that is. Then get out there and explore!

Coming full circle, The surprising relation between Kitsap Waterfalls and Yellowstone Geysers.

It's no secret that my two favorite things on this earth are Yellowstone's hydrothermal features and the Kitsap Peninsula's hidden waterfalls. One takes my attention during the summer, the other takes my attention during the wetter months of the year. Two separate geological features, nearly 900 miles apart, with seemingly no relation between them. Or so I thought...

I have just finished wrapping up my first week of classes here at Central Washington University, and am loving it. My classes are fascinating, my professors are great, and it's looking like the quarter is going to be one adventure after the other.

During on of my classes, "The Geology of the Pacific Northwest" this week we were discussing two of Washington's major geologic events. The Columbia River Basalts, that covered 40% of the state in up to 3 mile thick layers of lava rock. And the huge glacial floods that tore their way out of Montana and roared across the flat plateau of eastern Washington, all the way to the Pacific.

The origins of the Columbia River Basalts were 18 million years ago when the Yellowstone Hot Spot made it's first continental appearance, tearing massive calderas into what is now northwestern Nevada, southeastern Oregon, and Southwestern Idaho. For years I had thought that these first explosive eruptions were the birth of the Yellowstone Hot Spot. When I asked my professor this, he informed me that recently it had actually been suggested that the Yellowstone Hot Spot is much older, and has been erupting for longer than is commonly thought.

As it turns out, there are several studies which show the Yellowstone Hot Spot originating off the ancient west coast of the Pacific Northwest. For those of you who have been to my waterfall lecture, something should begin to feel eerily familiar about this....

As I explained in my lecture, 55-57 million years ago, some unknown force split the ancient Farallon Plate into several pieces and erupted a huge amount of basalt lava onto the seafloor. These basalts, today known as the "Crescent Formation," were slammed into the side of the North American Plate and stuck there, uplifting to become modern day Vancouver Island, part of the Oregon coast ranges, the eastern Olympic's, and the core of the Kitsap Peninsula. It is now believed that the "unknown force" was none other than the Yellowstone Hot Spot. That's right, the bedrock comprising Green and Gold Mountains, and the rest of the Blue Hills, the same bedrock that our beloved waterfalls crash over, probably originated from the geological feature which fuels Old Faithful, Beehive, and the other 1500 geysers in Yellowstone National Park.

Waterfall Wednesday: Bechler of the Yellowstone, Part Two

Following our arrival and viewing of Terraced Falls, our trip began to go south. The rainstorm which had mercifully dissipated before we arrived at Terraced had soaked every inch of the Bechler Region down to the core. Coming back through the once pleasant woods from Terraced Falls turned into a soppy, frustrating hell. While the rest of my group would have their sanity broken somewhere else along the trip, mine snapped here. Having rapidly lost my reserves of cheerfulness to the dull wetness and constant brush battle of the off-trail travel, it all came to head when a Yellowjacket slammed its sharped pointy end of pain into the back of my knee. The result was an instant reaction of pain and rage. Screaming expletives at every living thing within 100 feet, I raced ahead of my friends, trying to get as far away from the yellow and black flying demon that had just sent my once joyous afternoon screeching to an abrupt halt.

Crossing a creek in a less than jovial mood. Photo by Ryan Maurer. 

After regaining my composure somewhat and finally arriving back onto the trail, the trip continued on a more melancholy note, trudging the remaining 5 or so miles in on and off rain to our campsite at the edge of the North Fork Mountain Ash Creek. After quickly setting up camp, we donned our daypacks and made a beeline for our second waterfall goal of the trip. about three/quarters of a mile later, we crested a rise and got a face-full of spray rising nearly 300 feet up to meet us. Across the canyon, swollen from the recent rain; Union Falls roared 260 feet into the canyon in an astounding display of chaotic whitewater.

Union Falls at Sunset, Photo by Ryan Maurer

Below the overlook, a steep and slick boot path (No longer open I believe, and if it is, don't try it) led down to the base of this titanic giant, one by one our group descended. And several minutes later I found myself standing at the base of one of the most incredible waterfalls I've ever seen in my life.

The Base of Union Falls, with Will Boekel for Scale, Photo by Ryan Maurer

Standing at the base of Union Falls is chaos. pure chaos. The force of thousands of gallons of water slamming into rhyolitic bedrock after free-falling for over 100 feet sends tempestuous winds blasting outwards. horizontal streams of water trail downwind of any object within 50 feet, Talking here is almost useless, as you have to scream at the top of your lungs to be heard. After 10 seconds of standing 50 feet. from the base, you are utterly and completely drenched and shivering. As our group stood with jaws agape, eyes squinting upwards in complete bafflement, it made the whole hellish ordeal getting here worth it. Waterfall Goal #2 was a success. After saying our goodbyes to Union and heading back to camp, we started the discussion about our final prize, 2.5 miles upriver, the fabled 60-foot thermal fall, Morning.

Waterfall Wednesday: Bechler of the Yellowstone, Part One.

Every hobby has a beginning, and my joy of waterfalling is no exception. I have been chasing after falls across western washington for about a year and a quarter now, and it's fun to look back on where it all began.

In June of 2014 as I was beginning my second season working in Yellowstone National Park, a good friend of mine who was also working in the park came up with an idea. An avid waterfall hunter, he begged me and two other friends to accompany him to a remote section of the park called the Bechler region. He wanted to go see and photograph three massive world class waterfalls there. After looking at work schedules and long term weather forecasts, we decided that we would go on August 5.

The day of departure dawned with the sound of pouring rain, our group realized it was probably a foreboding sign of what was to come. We hopped in the car anyway and drove three hours to the trailhead, with one or two "minor" delays. The trailhead itself is located deep in the countryside, Twelve miles down a winding worn out dirt road that squeezes between the boundaries of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, and nearly hidden at the bottom of a old dam.

First starting down the trail it was dry, and actually seemed somewhat pleasant, we eagerly moved forward, hoping to make it to our first waterfall goal of the trip with little hassle. Two miles later, just as we were taking our boots off for the river ford the trail crosses, the sky opened. A deluge of rain drenched us within minutes, and continued for the next hour or so as we began the climb up to a plateau. Finally, just as we were at the point to step off the trail, it let up. Wading through knee high brush in a gorgeous open forest of lodgepole pine, we made our way down towards the canyon which housed our prize. Eventually, a dull rumbling thunder reached our ears, and shortly after, we burst out of the trees onto the rim of a spectacular rhyolite canyon. At our feet, Slamming downward in six consecutive steps totalling 140 feet, was one of the largest, most powerful waterfalls in the Western United States. Terraced Falls.

140 ft Terraced Falls. Note the author and companion on the canyon rim to the left.
Photo by Ryan Maurer, Under A Rock Photography. 

Fan and Mortar July 15, 2014

It was the 2nd River Vent Pause and I was riding at a even pace down to Fan and Mortar. It was day 5 since they last erupted and a considerable crowd had gathered. I parked my bike just as High and Gold came on and it quickly became apparent they were on for the long run. Angle Vent came on a few minutes later and the following events took place between three of my friends and I.

High Vent starts going steady trying to lock, droplets reaching halfway up the opposite bank from my perspective. Gold can't make up its mind.

Ryan's on the verge of psychological breakdown.

Demetri has his radio halfway to his mouth but has a face of "I have no idea doing".

A few minutes later I notice "chevrons"  becoming visible in High. Will starts flapping his arms like hes trying to take flight. "DEMETRI LOCKITLOCKITLOCKIT."

Demetri hesitates: "uuuhhhh, uuuhhh."

Ryan's excitement is about to hit critical.

Gold joins in and Fan is in full lock, I just about explode. "DANG IT DEMETRI! LOCK IT!"

Demetri calls lock, it lasts for 5 minutes, during which im running up and down the boardwalk screaming like a bafoon. Demetri's glued in place, Ryans shaking like a leaf. Will is wooping and staring from near Mortar.

Im standing next to Ryan, snap a picture of his idiot grin. 23 seconds later East Vent explodes without even a puff of steam to precede it. All hell breaks loose.

Fan's East Vent takes off! 

Will screams and dives off the boardwalk, racing to get in the splash zone, Demetri calls it like a nuclear strike just occured. Ryans just screaming, glued in place next to me. I snap another picture of his face (its his first F&M.)

Main Vent rockets upward, Will leaps into the deluge and embraces it like its the second coming of Christ. Ryan and i scatter towards the bridge. I don't know what Demetri's doing. We continue to cheer and watch F&M for the bext 30 minutes.

Unfortunately fan and mortar have not been as well behaved as we have hoped. They've erupted twice since the 15th eruption, and its been 5 days at the time of this writing. And just 30 seconds ago I got a message they're in an event cycle, will they go? We can hope!

Artemisia Geyser

Over the summer there were several areas in the Upper or Lower Geyser Basin that I only visited once, or visitations were few and far between. But sometimes these areas rewarded these spontaneous visits with a special gift. One of these locations was Artemisia Geyser. Artemisia Geyser is located about a ten minute walk up the trail past Morning Glory Pool where most visitors turn around. Artemisia erupts from a massive superheated pool decorated by fantastic geyserite deposits. Eruptions are anywhere from 8-32 hours apart but are usually between 15-24.

Artemisia's massive pool and gorgeous sinter formations. Photo by Micah K.

Despite the extreme erratic intervals, there is a rugged group of Geyser Gazers that will go and plant themselves overlooking the pool for an entire day and into the night if they have to. They are Artemisia's greatest fans and I have an extreme amount of respect for the effort and dedication they put into watching this Geyser, for that reason this post is dedicated to them.

I will admit, I didn't pay much interest in Artemisia over the course of the summer as most of the significant geyser activity in the Upper Geyser Basin was much farther south. However, as the end of my employment began to draw near, I decided I needed to try to catch Artemisia. With the help from the group of Artemisia fans, I finally saw it.

Artemisia erupts! Photo By Micah K

Artemisia erupted just as I careened around the bend in a trail after being hailed over the radio. The entire massive pool lifted and flooded the surrounding sinter flat in a massive wave. Massive collapsing steam bubbles caused the ground to shake. The surface of the pool began to boil, seethe, and churn, and suddenly massive jets of water exploded into the sky up to 30-40 feet. A massive steam column climbed into the early evening sky. I celebrated with the sole Artimesia watcher who was with me, and we both enjoyed the eruption of about 30 minutes. It was one of the most incredible geyser eruptions I have ever witnessed. It was fantastic, and Artemisia instantly climbed into the list of my favorite geysers. I hope that I get the chance to see it again next summer. And the lesson I brought back from Artemisia was to never underestimate a geyser of Yellowstone ever again.

Uncertain Geyser.

Once again we're back to the temperamental and spellbinding Sawmill Group in the Upper Geyser Basin. The last time we were here we discussed Penta Geyser. Now we are going to discuss Uncertain Geyser, a favorite among several Geyser Gazers, and a geyser that proves somewhat elusive to catch.

Sawmill Geyser is the dominant geyser in the Sawmill Group, photo by: Micah K.

Everything in the Sawmill Group is affected by, of course; Sawmill Geyser. Uncertain is no exception. After every eruption of Sawmill the water levels in the group will drain several feet and then refill. This happens several times over until Sawmill has a much longer duration eruption, usually this is several hours long instead of the typical 90 minutes. After this eruption finally ends, the Sawmill Group undergoes a "Deep Drain" where the water levels in all the features plummet for several hours, in most of the springs it is even impossible to see water. After a few hours goes by the water levels begin to recover, and this is where the fun begins.

Twilight Spring in the Sawmill Group recovers from a drain following an eruption of Sawmill. Photo by:Micah K.

 Several features in the Sawmill Group only erupt, or usually erupt when the water level is coming up from a deep drain. Uncertain Geyser is one of those. Uncertain's crater is nothing more than a small nearly circular hole tucked against the thick geyserite shoulder of Sawmill Geyser. It is a race between Uncertain and the rest of the group. If nearby Twilight Spring reaches overflow before Uncertain erupts, the game is over, if Tardy Geyser nearby erupts first, usually that spells doom for the chances of Uncertain. If Sawmill Geyser erupts first, it usually isn't a good sign, but sometimes Uncertain will erupt in concert with Sawmill for a fantastic show. See how complicated the relationships are? Fantastic right? It's patterns and puzzles like these that make geyser gazing so much fun!

Despite it's unfortunate knack for keeping Uncertain from erupting. Tardy Geyser just down the boardwalk still puts on quite the show of its own. Photo by Micah K. 

As the water level comes up in the Sawmill Group, usually Uncertain will splash within it's vent or pulse up and down. If an eruption will occur, the water level will rise to the top of the rim and the splashing will grow vigorous, finally the splashing will turn into jetting, and neat little fountain of water will spray 10-15 feet into the sky for about five minutes. The eruption ends with a small steam phase.

Uncertain Geyser erupts! Photo by Micah K

For me the reason that I enjoy Uncertain so much is simply the buildup. The tension that occurs once you see all the criteria are in place and that the race is on between Uncertain and the other features is very fun. I'm sure I got many weird looks from visitors as I scampered from feature to feature jotting things quickly in my logbook before running to the next feature. But you know what, I loved every second of it.

Lone Star Geyser

Three miles south of Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin is a small secluded backcountry thermal area. This is the Lone Star Geyser Basin. From a trailhead located about ten minutes down the Grand Loop Road from Old Faithful Village a well maintained walking/bike path travels 2.5 miles down the Firehole River Valley. At the end of this trail is Lone Star Geyser.

Lone Star Geyser Meadow photo by: Micah K. 

Walking up to Lone Star Geyser is always a unique experience. After traveling through the shaded woods, with squirrels chattering complaints at you and the Firehole River burbling alongside, you emerge suddenly into an open meadow. A hillside rises to your right with multiple small spouters and thermal features on its slopes, however, at this point signs admonish you to stay on the trail, and it is illegal to approach these features.

But it is hard to miss the sentinel of this meadow, the ruler of this small group of features. Rising from a large geyserite platform shared with two geysers nearly insignificant to it, Lone Star's nine foot cone towers above everything else.

Lone Star Geyser erupts about every 2.5-3 hours. It has major and minor eruptions, sometimes there is no minor preceding a major, and sometimes there are two or three. It's quiet period is periodically interjected with surges and small jets of water from the main vent. Eventually one of these surges will last longer than the others, and grow stronger, suddenly the surge will turn into a explosive jet that rockets thin streamers of water 45 feet or more above the cone. Water pours down the sides and into deeply carved runoff channels down to the Firehole River. 20 or so minutes into the eruption the water will begin to wane, and the eruption will begin to switch to one of the most powerful steam phases in Yellowstone, audible sometimes a up to a mile away. The roar of the vaporized water escaping out of the vent is truly stupendous. 

Lone Star Geyser major eruption Photo by: Micah K.

Lone Star is one of my favorites because it is a major geyser somewhat away from the crowds, the hike to reach it is gorgeous, the settings are fantastic, and the eruption itself is awe inspiring. Lone Star is a special gem among Yellowstone's Geysers and I would highly recommend going to see it.

Beehive Geyser

Across the Firehole River from Old Faithful rises a barren white hill covered with gray minerals and bright streaks of bacteria. This is aptly named "Geyser Hill" and it contains one of the largest concentrations of geysers in the world. Several of the geysers are significant spouters, and one of them is truly spectacular when it plays, and is usually a crowd favorite.

Geyser Hill in the early morning

Beehive Geyser lies on the southern edge of Geyser Hill. Its name is based on its four-foot-tall cone that rises out of the surrounding sinter platform, resembling an old fashioned straw beehive. Most visitors walk right past Beehive during its quiet interval, only giving off subtle subterranean rumbles, wisps of steam, and occasional splashes. But, once a day, something occurs that sends the observing Geyser Gazer scrambling for their radio, and has all the other Gazers speeding in from across the Basin. Beehive's Indicator erupts.

Beehive's Indicator erupts, Beehive is the cone on the left.

Beehive's indicator is a jagged vent a few feet in front of Beehive, between the boardwalk and the cone, that fills with water and erupts up to 15 feet. As hinted by its name, Beehive's indicator usually only erupts just before an eruption of Beehive.

Somewhere between seconds and 30 minutes of Beehive's Indicator starting, Beehive will suddenly pour out a surge of superheated water from its cone, dousing the surrounding area and sending up a ball of steam. This is followed by a huge jet will exploding from the cone, blasting into the air and climbing 150-200 feet into the sky. The spectacle is one of the best in Yellowstone. During many eruptions, visitors will be showered by the falling water of the eruption, getting soaked within seconds. This water is usually cool, as it has time to chill as it falls through the air after leaving the vent.

With the boardwalk coming within 50 feet of Beehive, the sound of the water is incredible, reminiscent of a roaring jet engine. Supposedly the sound is due to the steam and water escaping through the vent at nearly supersonic speeds, although this theory has yet to be proven.

Beehive erupting in June 2014. Photo by Micah K. 

When I arrived in Yellowstone at the beginning of summer in 2013, Beehive was cooperating fairly well. 16-20 hours were the norm, with the occasional curveball interval thrown in. Then, on July 4th, things took a surprising turn. Beehive's indicator decided to erupt for an hour. Beehive splashed, and splashed, and splashed, but did not erupt. Geyser Gazers and visitors who were expecting a show groaned, but for different reasons. For visitors, it was the fact that the Geyser hadn't erupted as "promised" by the Gazers. For the Gazers themselves, it was because a "false indicator" means that Beehive is probably "broken".

 Sure enough, Beehive was "broken" for the entirety of the rest of the summer. Indicator began a pattern that would continue for months, erupting for 45-60 minutes every 3-4 hours. Beehive sometimes went days between eruptions, and several of them occurred with no indicator preceding it. After July 4 I only got to witness four more Beehive eruptions, two of them from a distance, one of them in the middle of the night from a distance, and one, by sheer luck, from the boardwalk in front of it.

Regardless of how Beehive behaved that summer, it's always a thrill of looking up and seeing indicator jetting outward, and the roar of Beehive's column as it towers skyward is always awe-inspiring. And once again, it's a crowd-pleaser, and I always love it when visitors get to enjoy the wonders of Yellowstone's Geysers.

Beehive Geyser and its indicator at sunset. Photo by Micah K. 

Vixen Geyser

30 miles North of Old Faithful and the geyser basins along the Firehole River, past the Madison River and through the Gibbon Canyon lies a large unique thermal basin. This is the Norris Geyser Basin. Norris has long been known as the most energetic basin in terms of activity, but in recent years. Geyser Gazers have began to call Norris "Snorris" for it's lack of geyser activity. There are only 3-5 semi-reliable geysers here. And if your lucky, something else will erupt for you somewhere along the trail system.

Norris Location

 Norris Geyser Basin is divided into two main sections. The North end of the Basin is dubbed the Porcelain Basin. It is characterized by it's barren flat landscape, full of sizzling areas, roaring fumaroles, and numerous small perpetual spouters. Temporary features rather than permanent ones are the norm here generally, save for a select few hardy survivors, but that is a topic for another post.

The scenery of the Porcelain Basin. Photo courtesy NPS

 The South portion of the basin is called the Back, or Tantalous Basin of Norris. Here many of the features are more permanent, and back in the day this contained several significant geysers. Of course, this basin is home to the most significant geyser in the world. Steamboat Geyser, again, that's a whole different topic that will be discussed in detail later.

The scenery of the Back Basin Photo courtesy NPS

Presently there is only one geyser that is really well behaved in the Back Basin, and that term is used in the most cautious way. Because Vixen Geyser can really live up to its name.

Vixen Geyser erupts! Photo courtesy of MA Bellingham

Vixen Geyser is a fountain-type geyser, that erupts from a small reddish crater a stone's throw away from the boardwalk (of course, you wouldn't dare take that literally.). You never really know what your going to get with Vixen, it can have dormancies of several years, and then suddenly spring back with fantastic eruptions that make gazers elated.

This year I visited the Norris Geyser Basin 2 times (4 if you count when I went to watch the Steamboat eruption this year). The first time I spent just an afternoon there, where I saw 2-3 eruptions of Vixen. That first visit the eruptions were about 40-50 minutes apart, and lasted only 1-3 minutes. I visited Norris again in September, where I watched Vixen for probably a total of about 4-5 hours. To my utter joy, Vixen was going crazy. Eruptions were occurring every 25-40 minutes apart and lasting anywhere from 2-7 minutes, it was a blast. a couple of the eruptions threw nice sized rocks, and after every eruption the crater drained with a hilarious and delightful draining sound.

 

Me watching Vixen Geyser erupt with a group of visitors

Video courtesy of Natalie H.

I was surprised Vixen climbed so high on my favorite geyser list, but I can see why. For one, it's a small feature, and I have a soft spot for the small features. 2nd, it's close to the boardwalk, so you can easily observe it. 3rd, it is a visitor favorite, they love Vixen! especially the drain sound. And 4th, it has a pretty straight forward building of events to any eruption. Usually it starts with wisps of steam drifting out of the crater, almost unnoticeable, then gurgling is heard within the vent, and gets louder as the water level gets higher. Soon water starts to surge within the crater, boiling and frothing and causing a commotion. Finally at some point, there s a larger than normal surge that gives way to jets of water knifing into the air about 10-15 feet. It's a great little show for a small geyser, and that's why it's number 5 on my top 20 list.

Penta Geyser.

Nearly smack dab in the center of the Upper Geyser Basin, surrounded by an open sheet of sinter deposits, bordered on the south by the frigid (Ironically named) Firehole River, Lies a cluster of about 19 different springs and geysers in an area roughly the size of half a football field. Welcome to the Sawmill Group.

Aerial view of the Sawmill Group. Geysers are White, Hot Springs are blue, Penta Geyser is Gold. 

Named for the largest Geyser in the group, this is one of the most fascinating groups of features in Yellowstone. Why? because of a certain type of activity known as an "exchange of function". When you walk up to the Sawmill Group, you are walking up to a geothermal battlefield. every day there is a constant battle that rages for which geysers get the energy. I'll explain more of this activity of the whole group on a later date, but for now, I'm going to focus on the geyser that is cherished (and loathed) by many a geyser gazer in Yellowstone. This is the humble, yet mighty, Penta Geyser.

Penta Geyser's cone. taken from a kneeling position on the boardwalk. June 2013.
Photo courtesy of Micah Kipple 

Penta Geyser is one of the many geysers in Yellowstone that "thrives on the tears of geyser gazers", you need just the right kind of set up to get it, and sometimes even the set ups end with crushed spirits and vehement cursing. But when the set up actually ends in a eruption, it is a one of a kind show. Penta is named for it's 5 vents, the largest of which erupts to 25 feet. the other's can get up to 6 feet. Here's the catch, Penta is only about 4-5 feet from the boardwalk. Which means when there's an eruption. It's shower time. The pulsing jets of this delightful cone can last for 2 hours, this year however, it's been anywhere from 40 minutes-1.5 hours.

Penta Geyser erupts September 6, 2013. Photo courtesy of Suzanne Strasser. 

Penta Geyser eluded me for almost the entirety of the 3 months that I was employed in Yellowstone National Park in 2013. I always seemed to miss it, sometimes only by minutes. It erupted 25 times behind my back. Finally, on September 6, 2013, my luck held, and while waiting for nearby Grand Geyser (#10 on the list) Penta geyser was called. One gazer also waiting on a nearby bench simply recalls "a orange blur flying down the boardwalk blowing by bewildered tourists". But I managed to make it, and enjoyed almost the entire eruption of 52 minutes.

Celebrating my first Penta eruption. Photo courtesy of Suzanne Strasser

Morning Geyser, Reclusive sentinel of the Lower Geyser Basin

Last summer, there were several geyser events that occurred in Yellowstone National Park that had set the geyser gazing community abuzz with excitement. One of the most significant events was the reawakening of one of the most powerful geysers in the park; Morning Geyser. Located in the  Lower Geyser Basin, North of Old Faithful, Morning Geyser is a sight to see. It's eruptions are capable of being 200 feet tall and 100 feet wide, and when viewed on a clear sunny day, the pictures themselves are breathtaking. 

Morning Geyser, May 6, 2013. Photo Curtsey of Maureen M.

Morning erupted for the first time in 18 years on June 20, 2012. The news spread like wildfire, and soon gazers were arriving at the park in droves to try to get a glimpse of this possibly once-in-a-lifetime event. And on the bright sunny morning of June 21, 2012, More than a dozen gazers witnessed Morning rise and erupt in all of it's splendor at 10:40. 

 

Video by Tara Cross

 If you listen closely in the video and turn up the volume, just before the large bursts, you can hear a muffled "WHUMPH". The origin of this sound comes from a amazing phenomena that only happens in a handful of geysers around the world; the blue bubble. blue bubbles form when the entire conduit underneath the pool of the geyser is filled with steam, the pressure from the steam pushes the remaining water out all at once, but instead of spraying in all directions immediately, the surface tension of the water holds it together as a massive azure blue bubble for a split second, before it explodes and sends water bursting in all directions. 

Classic Blue Bubble at Strokkur Geyser in Iceland, Blue bubbles almost always occur at the onset of this geyser's eruptions. Photo curtsey of www.wjla.com via google images.

At Morning, there are numerous blue bubbles during it's eruptions, and although I have yet to see a picture of an intact blue bubble at Morning, there are some incredible photo's taken directly after one bursts. Such as below. Once again, this is the May 6th eruption. 

Photo Curtsey of Maureen M.

After it's initial eruptions on June 20 and 21, Morning continued to sporadically be active throughout the rest of the summer, although erupting days apart, making it extremely difficult to catch. I myself missed morning by about a day last year, but I'll be darned if I miss it again this summer. After the summer crowds and geyser enthusiasts trickled out of the park, Morning's activity remained relatively a mystery throughout the late fall and early winter. 

However, we did have two huge advantages. The first was the wonderful and gracious observations of tour guides running snow tours past Morning during the winter. They would look for tell-tale signs of Morning's activity for us; checking to see if runoff channels were free of snow (the warm water from the geyser would melt the snow filling the channels) and observing if Fountain Geyser (the much more frequent geyser that resides in the crater in front of Morning) was throwing out more rocks than usual or behaving differently (they are indirectly connected). The second advantage was the presence of an electronic data monitor at Fountain, which picked up many Fountain Geyser abnormally long duration eruptions. usually these eruptions mean that Morning erupted during the event, although it's not certain at all. But we now are at least near certain that Morning was active throughout the winter of 2012-13. 

Morning's runoff channel melted free of snow on 1/29/13. Photo curtsey of Yellowstone Tour Guides

 Finally, after several months of uncertainty Yellowstone Tour Guides photographed an eruption on March 8, and then there was even second eruption 5 hours later! Morning was alive! The anticipation was excruciating leading up to the park's official opening in late April. Finally the gates opened and a gazer that is well known for studying the group of geysers that Morning's a part of began to observe that area daily. Then, on May 3, 2013, she witnessed a spectacular event as Morning and Fountain Geysers erupted together for almost a half hour, an event which had only happened probably only once before in this current eruptive phase. 

 

After this awesome event, Morning erupted 2 days later on the 5th of May, and then yet again on the 6th. Since then there have been at least 5 events, you can see the latest activity of Morning here. As of this writing, Morning's last eruption was on the morning of May 25, 2013 at 0557 in the morning. There is speculation that Morning could be starting to begin a new extremely active period of activity similar to that of it's activity in 1994, where it erupted like clockwork almost every 3-6 hours. One can only hope!

I forgot to mention one thing. Morning's name. Morning is one of those geysers that hates wind, if there's a lot of wind, Morning (usually) won't erupt. At Morning's location, the wind intensifies most during the afternoon, so the majority of its eruptions take place during the Morning, hence the name!

Thermal Thursday: Winter Steam Clouds

Winter in Yellowstone is probably one of the more drastic changes in a couple months that you can see anywhere on this continent. The wildflowers whither, the temperature plummets, and suddenly the ground is covered in a couple inches to several feet of snow for several months. Everything in the Park slows down almost to a crawl, that is, except for the Geysers.

Old Faithful erupting in Winter

In the winter, it seems that the only change that occurs to the geysers is that now even the smallest sput (a nickname Gazers have given to the little guys) can be seen, their steam columns become about ten times bigger, and it looks like a bomb has gone off whenever one erupts on the Old Faithful Streaming Camera.

Due to the increased visibility of the steam and from colder temperatures, Geysers begin to show visible steam "streamers" that are attached to every single drop that sputters out of them. At some points, the temperature becomes so cold that the streamers can be seen from the Webcam at Old Faithful. 

Sawmill Geyser erupting with streamers going nearly straight up.
Photo courtesy of Graham Meech

Despite the seemingly unchanged nature of the geysers during the winter, there is one geyser however, that is of considerable interest. Aurum Geyser, it is a small cone type geyser that erupts to about 30 feet for a minute and a half. During the summer it is a constant frustration of Geyser Gazers because of it's very erratic behavior, erupting 4 hours apart one time, and then taking a 48 hour break the next. Then something interesting happens. As summer gives way to winter. Aurum becomes practically predictable. it's eruptions about 4 hours apart. This winter, it was 4 hours 8 minutes +/- 12 minutes.

Aurum Erupting in the Summer

It is thought that the reason that this behavior occurs is because Aurum Geyser may be the only geyser in Yellowstone National Park that is affected by short term whether changes. If you want to accurately judge how frequent Aurum is, take a quick look at the grassy meadow behind it. If the meadow is wet and somewhat marshy, Aurum will probably be a bit more frequent. If the Meadow is dry. Then Aurum is probably reverting back to it's nickname graciously bestowed upon it by gazers over the years , "$&#@$&! Geyser". So with that theory it makes sense that Aurum is more common in the winter, the heat in the ground constantly melts the snow that falls on it, soaking that meadow for most of the Winter. In the summer there is little precipitation to wet the meadow, which means that Aurum is all over the place.  However, if there is a spell of rain or a thunderstorm in the park, Aurum will usually become more regular for a couple eruptions. but then it will become more erratic again. 

Aurum Steam trails this January. Photo Courtesy of  Graham Meech

In terms of Geyser Gazing, Winter is a challenging season. The Geysers keep going full steam ahead but there aren't people there to watch and observe them 24/7 like in the summer. The biggest reason for this is that time is limited in the Geyser Basins during the winter, since the only access to the Basins is via a special National Park "Snowcoach" and the tours are timed, so you can't just take your time and sit several hours at a geyser, you have to keep moving. You can get into the park for a day snowcoach or snomobile tour for relatively cheap. But for those who want an extended stay, such as the Gazers, it's a harder nut to crack because you would have to either rent a room at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge or rent a cabin.

On of the numerous Snowcoaches that deliver Visitors to different destinations around the park during winter
Photo Courtesy of Graham Meech

The second reason that Winter is a challenge for gazers is simply because it's hard to get around because of the thick snowpack and it's hard to stay in one place for a long period of time because of the sometimes below freezing temperatures. These difficulties are further worsened by fact that the spray from the geysers often freezes instantaneously wherever it lands, if this happens to be a boardwalk. Watch out!

Winter in Yellowstone, one of the more unique seasonal changes on the continent. Who's up for some snowy Geyser Gazing?